In a thread on Model Horse Blab Heidi Reaves mentioned that she had an album of progression pictures for pastelling a bay. She was kind enough to send me a link along with these helpful tips, and kinder still to allow me to share them here. Be sure to check out all her amazing work on Picasa. This is the lovely medallion she made:
Here’s a link to my stages of doing a bay. This is just standard. With more red you want to continue to add reddish browns, with more seal bay, you want to cut the red and go with sepia and black, with a lighter bay you want to stop early when you first get the look you want. Maybe layer more of the same color, but don’t go further. With sooty or dark bay, you want to layer black. It may be best to get black pastel instead of pigments. They may be too stark. If all you are working with is pigments, then go slow and don’t add too much of the color at once. Pigments tend to be more pigmented then pastels. There are advantages to using them, since they are so strongly pigmented but they can get too strong to fast too. So it’s best to work slow and with lighter layers.
It’s good to know color theory. What makes what color. The more you experiment the better you get at knowing. Burnt Umbers are made with adding reds and greens. Burnt Siennas=blues and oranges, Yellow Ochre=yellows and violets. With different amounts of these you get different ranges of the colors. Adding a little black will make a shade, adding a white will make a tint. Like Naples Yellow. A good horse color, and it has white in it. I think it’s a Raw Sienna=burnt sienna + white, put into white. But it could be a very light yellow ochre put into white. When mixing colors always mix the strongest colors in small amounts to the weaker color, until you get what you need. I haven’t actually tried to make Naples Yellow yet, I’m just guessing.
I actually added more to the muzzle, but haven’t taken a new photo yet.
Thank you Heidi!